Fault code readers

[JamesH]

I'm thinking of getting a fault code reader, now that my normal engine repair skills have been overtaken by technology. Sorry the question is a little offtopic, but I guess some of the people here may have some ideas...

Was looking at the Draper one

http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/car...972-79143.aspx

but also like the look of this one as have a laptop

http://www.myscantool.com/index.html

Its cheaper and provides more features.

Does anyone have any recomendations? Its mainly just for diagnosis on road car, so no programming features required.

James

[norman-normal]

Not sure about the '96+, but an OHM meter used to do everything you have a need for. The greatest need: reset the engine fault lite.
The modern engine is really a marvel of reliability. The two most common problems are: (1) a vacuum leak, disconnected or leaking hose. (2) Poor quality or ill advised work done by an incompetent.

[R59]

James,

Have a look here. You won't be disappointed.

www.ukobd.co.uk

My brother has an Actron CP9145 - which is pretty easy to use - it will reset fault codes/service lights, but it is OBDII compliant, and has extensions in the software for various manufacturers.

It's made his life easier in some cases (he does AirCon work, and while the basics of Air Conditioning are simple, the complex electronic systems that manufacturers are fitting these days can be a nightmare to fix without the ability to read and understand ECU codes)

UKOBD have quite a few to chose from.

Rob.

[JamesH]

Thanks all. GOne for a Gendan one in the end - pretty much the same stuff.

www.gendan.co.uk


The fault on the car is odd..

Honda civic. Engine occasionally misfires (usually after a corner!), fault light comes on, wont rev past 4k without misfire. Engine restart gets rid of 4k limit,but light still on. Light goes off after a day or two, unless misfire has reoccured. Often takes a few days between misfires.

I'm thinking a loose connection somewhere, hopefully fault code will give an indicator where.

[GORDON STREETER]

Although the cheaper end of code readers might and I stress "might" give you an idea of the problem it may well cost you more than getting advice from a trained person on the car in question. It may well give you a code number but as some of us know it doesn't always mean that is the part at fault.
Unless you can borrow parts off a donor car you could spend a fortune on this n that when it could be a loom fault, especially if the car has been played about with and things like wiring haven't been secured properly.

[norman-normal]

Very true Gordon, It's unlikely the reader will save any money.
As a past repair shop owner I can tell you that having extra parts for checking purposes is a considerable advantage.

[JamesH]

I'm pretty sure that what you say will probably be the case, but I'm going to give it a go just in case. Hopefully (and I mean hopefully) it will give me some idea of the general area of the problem, but if not, hey ho. I may save money, I may not, but I *hope* in the long run it will pay for itself.

Driving the car this morning and the 4k limit came back and light came on again- obviously the ECU is setting the rev limiter low because of the fault. Where could I find out more about the ECU actions at various times - or is that sort of thing proprietry?

James

[norman-normal]

The only way: switch ECU's and see if the problem goes away

[GORDON STREETER]

Sounds like its going into "limp mode" and "could " be an airflow meter problem, but it is really a waste of time trying to sort it out via the internet . unless someone has had an identical fault that posts on here. The very fact that the managment light has come on means that it has at least logged a fault and you will get a code.

[JamesH]

Well, reader arrived last night, worked first time on installation, got the fault code, and the freeze frame at time of fault. Software pretty good - real time display of engine parameters and so on.

Looked up the code and it turns out that the fault refers to the vtec solenoid, so look that up on internet. Turns out there are a few things can cause this - the VTEC system relies on oil pressure to active at, you've guessed it, 4000rpm. If fault comes below that, then check for a problem with oil, otherwise check solenoid, can be cleaned.

Then see a comment that low oil can cause VTEC to stop working. Starting to feel an incoming bolt of lightening....yes....bu**er. Oil level is very low in the engine. Top engine up. Use reader to reset code.

Engine been fine every since.

Do I feel like a twit or what....!!! Only saving grace - oil pressure light never came on which I would have expected to occur prior to getting engine and fault code issues. At least I didnt have to pay a garage to reset/mend anything on top of price of reader and software. Note to self - check the oil sender.....

Doh! Just goes to show - first, ignore all faults and check the basics, you never know what you may find.

James

[GORDON STREETER]

JamesH Well I'll give you credit for actually admitting "THAT" on the internet.
A guy towed a Mondeo up to my workshop and said that him and his mates couldn't get it going and had spent loads of time on it. Also one of his mates told me that he knew a "fair bit" about cars. Within a couple of minutes I had it going after putting some petrol in it !
So as I said although the code reader showed the solenoid was at fault it actually was something else,
Good job you didn't buy a new one !

[Notso Swift]

Originally Posted by JamesH

Looked up the code and it turns out that the fault refers to the vtec solenoid, so look that up on internet. Turns out there are a few things can cause this - the VTEC system relies on oil pressure to active at, you've guessed it, 4000rpm. If fault comes below that, then check for a problem with oil, otherwise check solenoid, can be cleaned.

Then see a comment that low oil can cause VTEC to stop working. Starting to feel an incoming bolt of lightening....yes....bu**er. Oil level is very low in the engine. Top engine up. Use reader to reset code.

Engine been fine every since.

They probably work on the basis that at higher revs more oil is splashed around at the top of the motor and it doen't have enought time to drain back into the sump, but yes, a low oil warning would have been better for you... except they WANT you to take it to a dealer, 5 minutes work for a 1 hour charge... (or more like 4 hours plus the valve, and it sill wouldn't be fixed)

[GORDON STREETER]

Notso My sentiment entirely, I just couldn't be bothered to say that re main agents !
I don't know if the Honda has a low oil warning light, obviously it has a pressure light but as we know its really all to late and the damage has normally been done.

[JamesH]

Whilst I was trying to determine what the indicated fault meant, I looked up how VTEC works, and its quite clever, and once you know how it works, it obvious why that particular fault occurs.

http://www.honda-marine.com/video/VTEC.wmv

James