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18 Feb 2004, 11:32 (Ref:878175)
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#1 | ||
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Racer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 415
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Rotzx Max Temperatures
hiya has anyone got running on a new thermostat model engine????? any of you have problems with the temperature, i know you had to cover the rad on older engines but i presume it must also be done on a thermo model, mine only gets to 50C and down the straight when flat out can just cut off as if the fuel is too rich for the temp?? anyone else have this?? cheeeeeeeeers
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18 Feb 2004, 16:27 (Ref:878434)
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#2 | ||
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Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 94
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Check and see that the thermostat isn't stuck open. If in doubt replace it.
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__________________
"There is only one thing faster than the speed of light....the thoughts of an imbicile" Gabriel Voison
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19 Feb 2004, 08:23 (Ref:879069)
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#3 | ||
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Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 39
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The thermostat opens at 45 degrees, this the optimum temperature that Rotax say the engine should run at. You should not run the engine at above 65. We always try to tun ours at about 50. If you think that it is cutting out because the fuel mix is too rich then lean it off, but it is unlikely to cut out because of this, it may 4 stroke, but the cutting out is probably something else.
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__________________
If it is to be it is up to me!
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25 Feb 2004, 08:37 (Ref:884930)
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#4 | ||
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Racer
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 240
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I just dragged out our Rotax Max owners manual and it states that the minimum temperature is 45 degrees. Below that you risk damaging the engine if it is runa t full race pace.
The suggested operating range is 50 to 60 degrees but maximum is 85 degrees. It is not uncommon to race them in the 60 to 70 degree range. Although we do our rebuilds more frequently than recommended due the sustained high revs of serious racing that our MAX is used for. Teh thermostat should only assist in getting the engine up to operating tempreature of 45degrees. This is more convenient than the way we do it of driving teh roll up laps with one hand covering the radiator and swerving the kart to warm the tyres at the same time. In normal running in cooler conditions tape over the radiator would still be required to allow the engine to heat up to a suitable operating temperature. Phil Last edited by philneast; 25 Feb 2004 at 08:38. |
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25 Feb 2004, 10:11 (Ref:885015)
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#5 | ||
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Racer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 415
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thats what i was thinking, it doesnt cut out as more of a dying. I will try taping the rad, does anyone else have the fuel pump gasket go on them all the time, i guess the fuel must be drained after each meeeting and then blown out the pump? also the green powervalve blowing off all the time??? i hate it its brand new i probably have had less probs with an old engine!!! iv done 3 meetings and am getting frustrated coz i have the pace, just cant get ma engine going constantly! grrrrrrrrrrrrr
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26 Feb 2004, 08:26 (Ref:885922)
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#6 | ||
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Racer
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 240
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The only problem we had withthe fuel pump was blocking up with dirt.
A good clean and a new diaphragm and gasket and it worked fine again. This happenned after 25 hours opration, at the time the book suggests this be done anyhow. Teh suympton was lack of punch from slow turns. Too Much throttle and it would bogg down. We never drain between meetings. We cable tie the cover for teh power valve as they are likely to blow off. It could be a jetting problem, maybe too lean? That will make them die at high revs. |
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