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13 Jul 2011, 10:17 (Ref:2925941) | #1 | ||
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Rusty Calipers. Moisture seal on or off?
Its only the Triumph Spitfire type on a Formula Ford but the rust build-up between the inside seal and the bore lip was quite considerable. I'd had them done professionally last time 3 yrs ago and I don't think they could have put any form of protection/lubrication in the weather seal and they seem to have attracted moisture/rust rather than kept it out. I'm tempted to leave them off and rely on my regular WD40 blast over (and I've sprayed the area with Rocol Moisture Guard (as read here some time back)) so I can keep my eye on them.
Any thoughts? |
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13 Jul 2011, 10:30 (Ref:2925948) | #2 | ||
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I wouldn't use WD40 or any solvent-based product (even brake cleaner!) anywhere near brake seals!
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13 Jul 2011, 10:47 (Ref:2925954) | #3 | ||
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I rather thought that WD40 was silicon-based and that seals might be a bit like the tray my wife cooks the parsnips in, y'know rubbery, floppy and takes 300deg C...!!
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13 Jul 2011, 12:26 (Ref:2926002) | #4 | ||
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It's a petroleum-based product. Thanks to safety legislation manufacturers of chemical products now have to publish a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS).
The MSDS for WD40 is here: http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf...d494716385.pdf |
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13 Jul 2011, 23:23 (Ref:2926271) | #5 | ||
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Do I leave the weather seals on or off? I'm for off so I can keep check on them from now on...
It has been found that 98.8562917% of all statistics are approxamate....... |
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14 Jul 2011, 16:44 (Ref:2926668) | #6 | ||
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I've run callipers with and without weather seals. Each has advantages and disadvantages. You've already discovered the main disadvantage of fitting them. Personally if I have them on I put the slightest smear of red rubber grease on the inside when fitting. I once tried punching a hole in the bottom edge of the seals to let them breath and any moisture/condensation to get out, but that was a bit inconclusive as it also let moisture in! On the other hand, if you leave them off then as the pads wear the exposed pistons will get covered in brake dust and general grime. This can be an issue if you get noticable pad 'knock off' because the grime to get between the piston and calliper. It's also important when putting new pads in to clean around the pistons thoroughly before pushing them back. Either way I think its more a case of regular maintenance than a question of 'on' or 'off'.
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14 Jul 2011, 19:35 (Ref:2926747) | #7 | ||
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Yep all good sense, although its never been too much of a problem before I've never seen the bore lip with so much rust in so little time so it's got me rattled but the pistons are fine. I have to assume the boots went in very dry (I smear rubber grease inside too) this time and it seems as if they actually attracted moisture/rust behind them to the degree that the pistons would not return. I'm leaving them off.
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25 Jul 2011, 09:36 (Ref:2930790) | #8 | ||
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Either no-one has much of an opinion on the subject or it's a bit sad that in these (supposedly) litigious times in 318 views only one wants to gives advice...love to know.
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25 Jul 2011, 10:07 (Ref:2930807) | #9 | ||
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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I would use the seals with out the rubber grease. I think it might melt when the brakes get hot anyway. If you don't run seals then any water that gets in will run out but also if you visit a sand trap and it gets near the piston it could scratch or mark the piston or worse jam it up. On a formula ford it wouldn't take long to check the seals between races or at the end of the meeting anyway and clean them.
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25 Jul 2011, 21:46 (Ref:2931086) | #10 | ||
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The calipers on my race car came without external seals and there isn't anyway of fitting them. Brake fluid can cause almost as much trouble with corrosion as external water from rain, most brake fluids absorb moisture especially if the brakes are run at high temperatures, so a race car will suffer more than an average road car for the miles travelled and will be worse if regular fluid changes are not done.
I have never had a problem with them seizing up through rusting in 20 odd years and just put a drop of ZX1 on the pistons before pushing them back. I also put a small amount of ZX1 in the brake fluid. A lot of the road cars I work on suffer from rusted pistons especially the chrome plated ones. Years ago we used to fit new piston seals and turn the chrome off in the lathe, now of course we have 'cheapish' exchange calipers. Even the ceramic pistons found on some Jap cars seize up and the aluminium calipers have problems with seized up bleed nipples and pipes/hoses. |
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28 Jul 2011, 18:28 (Ref:2932223) | #11 | ||
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Leave them off and just maintain them properly. They are primaraly there to stop lots of gunk from building up on road cars. Ensure the pistons are always clean, and not coated in baked on brake dust that will emmery the seals, and you will be fine, and see any problems early on.
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29 Jul 2011, 06:29 (Ref:2932343) | #12 | ||
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Wilewoods dont have them. I previously ran XJ6 calipers and the covers simply melted or caught fire so got left off in the end.
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11 Aug 2011, 17:45 (Ref:2938582) | #13 | ||
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Thanks Guys - feel a bit better about leaving them off. seems to be the right thing to do. Another race prep man also said he never fits them too.
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