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15 Oct 2008, 17:00 (Ref:2313170) | #1 | |
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Piston to bore clearance
Looking at my engine and have found I have a nearly 5 thou clearance between bore and piston. This gives me a 17 thou ring gap on the top ring. The bore itself is pretty much as from the shop at 3.190 .
What is standard practice as the engine man thinks about 2 thou clearance on the piston/bore clearance is better, with a 12 thou ring gap. |
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15 Oct 2008, 17:54 (Ref:2313222) | #2 | ||
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Is that the smallest gap or the largest? Pistons are very much NOT round at room temperature because of the additional materal around the gudgeon pin expanding a different amount to the 'thin' parts. This varies from piston to piston of course.
But I would say a gap of between 3 and 5 thou on the smallest gap at room temperature (assuming your bores are round at room temp, which they probably will be) would be about right. Set the ring gap as per the manufacturer/designer/piston manufacturer. As a very general rule of thumb, set the top ring to a minimum end gap of .004 inches times the bore diameter, and a thou or two more for each lower ring. But don't use that figure without checking it with someone who knows your engine. A race engine is happiest with slightly larger tolerances as you want least friction not most longevity. |
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15 Oct 2008, 19:18 (Ref:2313287) | #3 | ||
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Also depends on the piston material always check with your manufacturer. I had this recently I bought a set of pistons from SRP for the small blockchevy, the same company as JE Pistons. Now SRP make a more budget line of forged pistons and in two different materials one expands more than the other so requires more bore to piston clearance (cold). Well I got them back and they had put the wrong clearance slip in with the goods and I nearly had kittens thinking their website was wrong and I had order the wrong kit so in the end I actually had to phone the states where they confirmed the website was correct. In another engine I was building att he same time I had pistons from the other material that had to be about 3 or 4 thou tighter. Forged pistons also expand more than cast or Hypereutectic manufacturers originals which mean the engine can be built tighter with less piston slap noise wen cold.
Finally it also depends on the usage and how long you want between rebuilds. If was me I would contact the piston manufacturer and put the question to them as there are many scenarios. |
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15 Oct 2008, 19:20 (Ref:2313289) | #4 | ||
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Bore diameter, piston type, use, Induction (NA/Forced)
You need to answer all of these questions before we have enough info for a reasonable opinion, other wise it is just ****ing in the wind! The box the pistons came in will generally give a range. Chances are the manufacture knows what they are talking about. stay with in these figures. |
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15 Oct 2008, 19:49 (Ref:2313310) | #5 | ||
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Unless they put the wrong slip in the box!!! Also Nitros requires more clearance I believe.
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You can't polish a turd but you sure can sprinkle it with glitter! |
15 Oct 2008, 22:41 (Ref:2313455) | #6 | |
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The engine is a 1600 kent formula ford, n/a, bore 80.9
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19 Oct 2008, 11:04 (Ref:2315806) | #7 | ||
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But who made the pistons, what's their expansion characteristic?
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There is no substitute for cubic inches. Harry Belamonte - 403ci Vauxhall Belmont!! A 700hp wayward shopping trolley on steroids!! |
26 Jan 2009, 13:49 (Ref:2379608) | #8 | |||
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Quote:
Hey Ho... distant memories of building many many engines! I am starting to remember all the little things that make winning engines..... better not rattle on about it here but if you want more info I could always try stirring the grey matter, or dig out some of my build notes.. Good luck. |
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