Photography Query

[Andy H]

Any wise sages got any advice on purchasing:

a) polarising filters - have heard Hoya Standard Grade suggested as best value for money.

b) lens hoods - are they worth the trouble? I already have a filter permanently attached to protect the lens. Whilst a hood is useful for stopping flare I'm concerned leaving a hood on peramently (too much trouble to keep taking it on and off) means no lens cap means more regular cleaning needed.

Anything to choose between rubber or metal hoods?
Is it best to get a hood specifically designed for the lens?

c) Any other useful accessories or gadgets worth having? Am considering a 1.4x converter (cash allowing)- any features to make sure it has?

For reference I'm using a Canon E0S500N with Canon 28-80mm and 75-300mm lenses.

Thanks
ANDY

[KC]

I don't think you will go wrong with any of Hoya's products.

I always use a lens hood, even at night. Most of the professional photographers I have chatted with online recommend never being without a hard lens hood. I have never had any problem mounting my lens cap down inside the lens hood and mine is over 2" deep.

I have a Canon EOS Rebel with Tamron 35-80mm lens and 80-210mm lens. I recently purchased a 2x teleconverter and it works great. One thing you will need to get used to if you have not already is manually focussing. The Canon autofocus and most other systems as well will not work at f5.6 or higher. Mine will even hunt at f4.0 at times so I just automatically go to manual focus mode when I use it. But, zooming out to 420mm is awesome for sports photography. You will also need to open up 2 stops to compensate for the teleconverter and then 1.0 to 1.5 for a polarizer, so be ready for that as well. A 2x converter on your 75-300mm lense will give you an incredible zoom range.

As far as other gadgets, I also use a neutral density filter when shooting in broad and bright daylight. I have a monopod I purchased but have gotten much better at my shooting and rarely use it now, even at racked out to 420mm.

Keep shooting and always experiment with different settings.

[bella]

could some nice photographer type explain to me about one of those lens hood things? are they expensive? worth getting? what is it exactly that they do? would my nikon fm and motorsport photography benefit from one?

[Andy H]

Thanks for the advice KC. Just a couple more questions.

I have seen 'rubber' lens hoods advertised are these 'hard'?

Is it worth paying more for Hoya's HMC grade filters compared to standard?

I was thinking 1.4x convertor as concerned about a 2x in case of lower light conditions, for travel photography where it's not practical to cart a tripod about would it be possible to go hand held at the longer end of the range (500mm+).

[KC]

I also have a soft rubber hood that flips backwards. I mainly use it if I am taking pictures through glass and I can seal out light reflecting from behind me. The polarizing lens will help with this as well. I usually leave my hard plastic lens hood on though.

One thing to check for is the coating on the surface of the glass. Many really cheap filters are uncoated, meaning they do not have anti-reflection coatings and can cause weird flares, and strange light difractions in your pictures. I often refer to this site for information, their library of articles by pro photographers is quite extensive.

http://www.photo.net

they have an excellent FAQ section concerning filters and their uses.

http://www.photo.net/photo/filters

Give these a try. The forum is huge and you can find articles and conversations about nearly everything concerning photography.

[AndyF]

Bella, a lens hood is a piece of plastic, metal or rubber that is placed over the end of the lens, almost in a continuation of the lens shape! This helps to reduce the glare of the sun when composing the shot. I am told old Butter pots can make the best lens hoods!!


Personally, I do not use one, but can recommed a 2x converter. Current camera is Minolta X-700 with several Tamrom lenses. Am looking to upgrade to Minolta 505si Super with 28-80mm and 75-300mm Lenses. Any tips, pointers or stories to convince me to buy, or not to buy!!

[Crash Test]

And whatever you do, take the hit yourself before your camera....I had a bit of an accident the other day with my Tamron lens when the plastic tabs on the lens that screw into the camera broke...$135...arrrggghhh

I always have a skylight filter on my lens, it really doesn't affect the photo, but since I seem to be taking photos in many a silly position at the race track, it is a great piece of sacrificial protection.

I seem to always have the lens hoods on my zoom lenses fitted if it is sunny...if nothing else, it makes it look like you've got a bigger lens than what you really have .

[Hans.ca]

I have worked as a photo journalist covering motor racing from 1960 until 1982. I can give you the following advice:
Every lens that I own has a Skylight Filter on it. It has saved quit a few of my lenses, stones flying from the edge of the track have a habit of hitting the lens.It will also protect the lens coating from champagner at the victory celebration.
Always use a lens hood made for that particular lens. Metal plastic or rubber, it does not matter as long as the hood is the correct size for the lens.
Use a fixed focal length lens whenever you have a chance. Despite what you are told by the camera salesman the fixed focal length lens is usually superior.
Before you purchase a lens make sure you get to take some photographs with it. Take a tripod mount your camera on it and photograph a well made brick wall. Do this with every f opening that you can. Develop the film and blow all the negatives up to 11 x 14 inches. This will show any aberations caused by the lens. You will also find an f opening that will give you the best sharpenes and least degradation.(pin cushion etc.)
I have a vivitar 70 to 210 mm lens that I purchased in about 1965 or there abouts. It was the sixth lens that I tested that I did buy. It works well even now.
Polarising filters I have many but I can count on one hand the number of times I used them. For race coverage they are useless. For landscape they are a requirement. Hoya is a good make.
Hope this helps, all my equipment is Nikon and Hasselblad. The Nikons I used this last weekend at the Vintage races, Liz was there but we did not manage to meet. The Hasselblad is up for sale.

[elephino]

Well, Hans has covered pretty much everything I was going to add to what has already been said.

I will repeat to always have a skylight filter on the camera though as it is a lot cheaper to replace than a whole lens.

Another thing to consider when getting a 2x converter is film, as normal 100 or 200asa is just not up to it under most circumstances. Personally, I use Fuji 800 Press, which is an excellent film with a better grain than standard 400asa film. The main reason is, for motorracing, it gives a little more flexibility especially with a 2x converter stuck on my camera. But photos will be sharper without it, so if you can avoid using it, do so.

My 100-300 Sigma comes with a lens hood that can be turned around so still attached but not over the end of the lens (mainly for when it is put away), but it is designed for the lens.

Hand held at 500ml+ is fine. I do 600 (300+2x) quite often with no problems.