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21 Dec 2006, 08:59 (Ref:1796532) | #1 | ||
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Wheel spacers
Whats the pro's and con's of using wheel spacers to bring the rims further out into the arch and clear suspension units?
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21 Dec 2006, 09:11 (Ref:1796547) | #2 | |
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Which wheels andy? Front / rear or all........trikes
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21 Dec 2006, 09:13 (Ref:1796550) | #3 | ||
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All wheels
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21 Dec 2006, 09:20 (Ref:1796554) | #4 | ||
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On a car
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21 Dec 2006, 09:22 (Ref:1796556) | #5 | |
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Widening the rear will make the car a bit looser. Widening the front will add a little push. If you do all four at once basicly you should be a little quicker thru the apex'. But it will take a little longer to bring the tyres 'in'. How much spacing do u require?.....trikes
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21 Dec 2006, 09:27 (Ref:1796557) | #6 | ||
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Basically im concerned about the extra loading, due to having to space the wheels out approx 1"
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21 Dec 2006, 09:38 (Ref:1796569) | #7 | |
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Andy u are going to need longer wheel studs and any reputable wheel stud manufacturer will provide the goods for u there, no worries. Is there a company that makes anodized alloy spacers for your car? Widening the front will increase your Scrub Radius. Is it for your Escort?..trikes
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21 Dec 2006, 09:41 (Ref:1796573) | #8 | ||
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My cars wheels (Toyota Corolla GT) are spaced out about 2 inches using 'spacers' and wheel offsets.
I''ve not had any reliability problems yet but we check and change the brearings regularly with the best ones we can get. The wheel studs are also cold formed high quality items, not the cheap ones. And the spacers locate on both the hub AND the wheel. |
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21 Dec 2006, 09:45 (Ref:1796579) | #9 | |||
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Quote:
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21 Dec 2006, 09:55 (Ref:1796586) | #10 | ||
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There is some good advice on the right and the wrong way to do this Andy in Phuns book How to make your car handle. Basically longer studs as has been said and a nice snug fitting machined alloy spacer which must be easily available from DT's or wherever for your car, I know they have the studs as I use the Ford ones on the Chevies believe it or not. I have about a half inch spacer on the front of my yellow car to get the wheels to clear those massive Wilwood 6 pot GN calipers.
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21 Dec 2006, 10:11 (Ref:1796600) | #11 | |
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Stephen how u going? I regularly change our cars and thats the way it works. Wider in the front gives a little push. Steve Smith agrees with me......trikes
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21 Dec 2006, 10:34 (Ref:1796633) | #12 | ||
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Widening the track lowers the spring rate at that end by increasing the lever arm effect, and by inference increases the weight transfer at the other axle. All things being equal on a stiffly sprung race chassis, widening the front track will induce more oversteer and visa versa. Basic Kart tuning technique.
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21 Dec 2006, 10:38 (Ref:1796636) | #13 | |||
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But there are other things to consider. If you change your offset and nothing else you will increase the scrub radius. I don't think the steering geometry will change, but I'm unsure about camber curves and bump steer curves if you set it up with x track, then increase it 20mm later on without resetting everything. |
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21 Dec 2006, 11:04 (Ref:1796653) | #14 | |
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Widening the front track. Wouldn't that depend on how much weight was already spread across the front wheels and how the car or kart was handling in a certain situation? I'm just talking about what I've got. Andy has to adapt our discusssions across to his car. Static loading and dynamic loadings are different on most cars even in the same class. Yes? I don't believe any of what we say to be gospel. We're all in the same boat, it's what works in our given situation at the time to achieve a balance that is acceptable ........trikes
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21 Dec 2006, 11:40 (Ref:1796688) | #15 | ||
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I would guess that the biggest effect of widening the track would be to soften the suspension if no other changes were made. I run 1" extra offset rims at the front of my FF1600 when it's really wet. I could probably achieve the same result...less understeer...with softer front springs.
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21 Dec 2006, 13:20 (Ref:1796818) | #16 | ||
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It also increases the load on the front spindles. Magnaflux or other crack detection is mandatory on a regular basis . . . .
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21 Dec 2006, 13:54 (Ref:1796844) | #17 | |||
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21 Dec 2006, 18:12 (Ref:1796987) | #18 | ||
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Widening the track on a doubble A-arm system axle may have different effect on the wheelrate depending on scrub distance and A-arm angle. I have an equation for caculation elswhere on this list.
However, we may look at what happen if we widen the front track. The car has equql track front-rear of 1600mm, same Wr all around (10kg/mm), 1000 kg weight with 500 front and rear axle and 400 mm cgh. At 1g cornering force we will transfer 125 kg at each axle, 250 kg total. We will now widen the front track, other things beeing equal,to 1700 mm. The weight transfer will now be less due to an average wider track, 242 kg. The front weight transfer will still be 125 kg, and the reduction will show at the rear to 117 kg. I dont say what will hppen to the over-understeeer situation, only the weight transfer. Goran Malmberg |
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26 Dec 2006, 09:23 (Ref:1799304) | #19 | |
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Gorans on it
Goran your a champ. I totally agree. Works for me and I win a lot of races..........trikes
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29 Dec 2006, 09:11 (Ref:1801013) | #20 | ||
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I think Andy's concerns are for another Escort Driver who wants to use 7" wide Sierra Cosworth 3dr Rims on a Mk1. Due to the offset of those rims the need the hub mounting flange spaced out to sit the wheel in the normal place that the RWD wheel will sit, this is commonly done with hubcentric spacers.
The center line of the wheel with the spacers is sitting in the same place as the RWD offset wheels centerline. |
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29 Dec 2006, 09:21 (Ref:1801017) | #21 | |||
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In the last 3 years I have only heard of one spindle failure (on a RWD mk4 YB powered Escort) and the way i have always thought about this is this... Race the car .. lap 1 ride the curb on turn 2 ... and crack the spindle. lap 2 ride the curb on turn 2 .... spindle breaks. |
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15 Jan 2007, 20:57 (Ref:1815978) | #22 | ||
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the unsprung load transfer on the front drops and in the rear stays the same .. but what really makes the biggest difference is the roll (or anti-roll) torque distribution front/rear. The front will increase it's share of the anti-roll causing more load transfer in the front (more than the drop from the geometric transfer) -nigel. |
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16 Jan 2007, 13:39 (Ref:1816532) | #23 | ||
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....so then, all else equal, are you suggesting that the car will understeer more? I'm trying to figure out the same problem with my Mini.
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16 Jan 2007, 17:02 (Ref:1816718) | #24 | ||
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Quote:
i think the end result will be that if you increase the track on one end then that end will have less grip than before due to the percentage of anti-roll torque on that end increasing. -nigel. |
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16 Jan 2007, 20:03 (Ref:1816902) | #25 | |
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Bingo! thats what I said (understeer). But depending on various things like how the car turns in now combined with driver preference etc. U/S can be a good thing or bad. Just do what I do 'experimentation without fear of recrimination'. If it dosen't do what u want it to do just make sure u can put it back the way it was then think (picture) about it some more.......trikerule
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