Main bearing line boring / honing? Who does it properly?

[Al Weyman]

Originally Posted by Denis Bassom

Judging by Al's list of problems, not so sure about Chevy's!

Plus I'd only build a 377 and rev the nuts of it!

Haven't dabbled in turbo's yet, must have a try some time.

For the record my last engine that let go did at least 40 races and quallies some long ones as well and only broke because I never paid enough attention to valve spring installed height when I fitted a ridiculous over the top cam which I was told it was something that it wasn't and really a drag cam (still have it if anyone wants one). All other problems were bottom end oil related and since I got rid of the oilcooler, run on synthetic and with an Accsump (one I bought from you!) and steel crank and H beam rods as my mate told me to do years ago and a big water rad bottom end probs have been eliminated. Even the engine that dropped the valve at Mallory the bottom end (apart from block, two rods and two pistons) was perfect and is in the yellow car now. I even sorted out the oil leak problems (the majority of them) and have built so many now I like you I have learnt from my mistakes. BTW the engine that let go at Silverstone was sold to me as a stopgap and misdescribed, it was meant to be Richard Lloyds spare engine producing 450 bhp and suitable for circuit use, suffice to say it wasn't, it was a 'Crate' engine ok for road use but useless for the circuit!

[Al Weyman]

BTW on topic, if you fit splayed aftermarket caps to a Gen 1 small block chevy 2 bolt block its way stronger than the factory four bolt which can have stress issues around the 2nd set of bolt holes as they go vertically into the block not at an angle. Even a two bolt with studs instead of bolts is reconned to be well strong enough to cope with 500 plus BHP and 7500 rpm spins. That's whats in my yellow car at the moment as I couldn't find a 4 bolt block at the time.