88 Raynard

Triple J Motorsport · 18 Nov 2004, 13:51 (Ref:1157053)

I am looking at purchasing a 88 Raynard I am told the car is 100% original 88 spec including the bodywork. I know the car has a front anti droop kit fitted and the last tuner of the engine was Dinosport? I am told the engine is very good!

I understand some later cars had fabricated uprights different CWPs and different bodywork.

Are there any specific areas of the car I should look at? eg areas the chassis can crack

Any information would be most welcome

Cheers Guys

jminsh · 18 Nov 2004, 14:57 (Ref:1157097)

Never heard of Dinosport must be a bit of a Dinosaur !!

Ian Sowman · 18 Nov 2004, 15:42 (Ref:1157115)

I've never heard of a 'Raynard' either!

jminsh · 18 Nov 2004, 16:15 (Ref:1157134)

Could be a cut n shut job between a Ray and a Reynard !!lol

diz · 18 Nov 2004, 16:22 (Ref:1157139)

John,

Try John Loebell. He is a fount of knowledge on all things Reynard 87 - 92, although the majority of them [not John's doing] are chassis plated as 89's - something to do with a clas being Pre90 and them all being so similar.
Are you sure the car you are interested in is an 88, it sounds like it could be an 87.

johnloebell@hotmail.com
or try Mike Waite
mike@mweng.freeserve.co.uk

JNWRF01 · 18 Nov 2004, 16:44 (Ref:1157151)

If not, John Miller's old mechanic Colin used to run the works Reynards for many years....give him a PM..

Triple J Motorsport · 18 Nov 2004, 16:44 (Ref:1157152)

Quote:

Originally posted by diz
John,

Try John Loebell. He is a fount of knowledge on all things Reynard 87 - 92, although the majority of them [not John's doing] are chassis plated as 89's - something to do with a clas being Pre90 and them all being so similar.
Are you sure the car you are interested in is an 88, it sounds like it could be an 87.

johnloebell@hotmail.com
or try Mike Waite
mike@mweng.freeserve.co.uk

Many Thanks Diz

What makes you think it could be a 87 ?

Paul-J · 18 Nov 2004, 17:07 (Ref:1157188)

Hi
I ran an 88 Reynard for the last 2 years in Castle Combe FF1600's. It was a great car, really easy to drive at mid-grid pace for an old tug like me. People far better than me are running right at the front in Reynard 89's at Combe. WHT results speak for themselves. Biggest issues were it was heavy, 432-435kg's depending on how much fuel in it. But you can do lots about that with light bodywork, light diffs, lightweight brake bells and the usual stuff to CV's etc. Its brilliant in the wet, really goes quickly. Spares easily available from the links you already have and URS and FCS.
The only other thing that was a problem (I found) was even a small shunt could crinkle the top rails (Square section) rails. That would tweak the chassis and setup was difficult then to get even x weights.
My car originally came back from Alan Cornock / S Africa then got raced in the Euro championships. There are a load of them being raced there (88's) as I believe ( bound to get shot down by someone here!) 88 is the newest chassis you can run. Sold mine to guy in Holland to race there, a couple up for sale on another site at the moment.
Must haves are the anti-droop at the front and the adjustable rear roll bar mechanism / cable.
Hope this helps

diz · 18 Nov 2004, 17:36 (Ref:1157216)

Quote:

Originally posted by ZetecNo9
Many Thanks Diz
What makes you think it could be a 87 ?

I'm not mechanical at all - cue some abusive replies, but when
I saw "I understand some later cars had fabricated uprights" I remembered a conversation a while back when somebody mentioned the only real difference between an 87 and a 92 was that from 88 onwards the rockers were of a different material and method of manufacture. These weren't available any more, so any genuine 87 wouldn't be as original anyway.

This came about when I was thinking [pre Steve Burns] of changing Pre87 to Pre88 in the NW, but excluding the Reynard 87, as it was far quicker than anything else that year. It was suggested [tongue in cheek] that the 87 should be allowed, but to expect to be swamped with Reynard 89s', chassis plate amended to miraculously become 87s' More Reynard 87s' than the factory ever built.
A bit like there being more FIA papered Williams FW08s' racing in Historic races than Frank ever built.

Chassis plating is a big problem with any Pre this, that or the other class.

Triple J Motorsport · 18 Nov 2004, 20:47 (Ref:1157397)

Quote:

Originally posted by Paul-J
Hi
I ran an 88 Reynard for the last 2 years in Castle Combe FF1600's. It was a great car, really easy to drive at mid-grid pace for an old tug like me. People far better than me are running right at the front in Reynard 89's at Combe. WHT results speak for themselves. Biggest issues were it was heavy, 432-435kg's depending on how much fuel in it. But you can do lots about that with light bodywork, light diffs, lightweight brake bells and the usual stuff to CV's etc. Its brilliant in the wet, really goes quickly. Spares easily available from the links you already have and URS and FCS.
The only other thing that was a problem (I found) was even a small shunt could crinkle the top rails (Square section) rails. That would tweak the chassis and setup was difficult then to get even x weights.
My car originally came back from Alan Cornock / S Africa then got raced in the Euro championships. There are a load of them being raced there (88's) as I believe ( bound to get shot down by someone here!) 88 is the newest chassis you can run. Sold mine to guy in Holland to race there, a couple up for sale on another site at the moment.
Must haves are the anti-droop at the front and the adjustable rear roll bar mechanism / cable.
Hope this helps

Thanks Paul what is the FF1600 weight limit ?

What are lightweight brake bells ?

This car is coming from europe

Cheers

John

Paul-J · 19 Nov 2004, 08:47 (Ref:1157787)

Hi John

Weight limit for FF 1600 is 420kg.
Brake bells, well I'm not 100% on the mechanical side but here goes........ I'm sure someone else on the site will give a much better description. On mine the discs were solid including the central part of the disk. On the lightweight ones the disk appear to be attached to a much lighter central rotor, sculpted out, almost like a mini alloy wheel. I've heard you can save around 5kgs with these.Talk to the guys you have links for the details
Cheers
paul

JohnMiller · 19 Nov 2004, 09:33 (Ref:1157835)

Z9,
I have replied to your PM.
This sounds like one of the two 'mint' restored cars for sale at the Festival for a lot of Euros.
Brake bells, as Paul says, the disc face and the centre mounting are separate parts bolted together. Centre is much lighter...

Triple J Motorsport · 19 Nov 2004, 14:38 (Ref:1158182)

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnMiller
Z9,
I have replied to your PM.
This sounds like one of the two 'mint' restored cars for sale at the Festival for a lot of Euros.
Brake bells, as Paul says, the disc face and the centre mounting are separate parts bolted together. Centre is much lighter...

Cheers John & Paul

Yes it's a european based car and there 2 of them.

I never saw them at the festival.

What was the condition like did anyone look over them?

They are quite expensive

John

JohnMiller · 19 Nov 2004, 15:08 (Ref:1158227)

****ing mint condition (and ****ing ££££ - no Euro sign on this keyboard I can see).

Thought the pricier one sounded better as the cheaper had something like 'only 30 hours running since engine freshly rebuilt!' Mind you I think both had well-run motors...

Don't forget will be on, and be set-up for, ACB9s.

Triple J Motorsport · 19 Nov 2004, 16:08 (Ref:1158293)

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnMiller
****ing mint condition (and ****ing ££££ - no Euro sign on this keyboard I can see).

Thought the pricier one sounded better as the cheaper had something like 'only 30 hours running since engine freshly rebuilt!' Mind you I think both had well-run motors...

Don't forget will be on, and be set-up for, ACB9s.

Oh yes they are both €€€€ing expensive did you see the cheaper one or just the car being raced? But I deal is being done against my Zetec.

How long should you run a kent before rebuilding it? Zetecs do about 5,000 miles or more

30 hours x average speed say 70mph = 2,100 miles (80mph = 2,400 miles)...sound alot for a kent

John

Paul-J · 19 Nov 2004, 22:11 (Ref:1158730)

Hi John
When I got mine from the owner it had scrutineering stickers from Nurburgring, Zolder and Spa on it! Slightly more evocative than CCombe but..........
Biggest issue was, as John says, was it was sent up on ACB9's the Avon copy of the old Dunlop treaded tyre. They are massive!!! Put it onto the ACB 10;s and it was like a bobsled. Took forever to get the ride heights right, I was winding the shocks for hours until I realised it had been set up with loads of input from the anti-droop mechanism. So just a tip,check how much pre-load the guy who has it now has put into the shocks with anti-droop. It really led me up the wrong pathway when I was trying to set it up
Cheers - Paul

Triple J Motorsport · 20 Nov 2004, 17:39 (Ref:1159320)

Quote:

Originally posted by Paul-J
Hi John
When I got mine from the owner it had scrutineering stickers from Nurburgring, Zolder and Spa on it! Slightly more evocative than CCombe but..........
Biggest issue was, as John says, was it was sent up on ACB9's the Avon copy of the old Dunlop treaded tyre. They are massive!!! Put it onto the ACB 10;s and it was like a bobsled. Took forever to get the ride heights right, I was winding the shocks for hours until I realised it had been set up with loads of input from the anti-droop mechanism. So just a tip,check how much pre-load the guy who has it now has put into the shocks with anti-droop. It really led me up the wrong pathway when I was trying to set it up
Cheers - Paul

Do you need to change the spring lengths?

I need to change the rear dampers and springs anyway

John

Paul-J · 22 Nov 2004, 08:08 (Ref:1160509)

Hi John
I did not do that at the time but they were changed later. The dampers were the original Bilsteins.
paul

JustinDawkins · 22 Nov 2004, 11:18 (Ref:1160684)

time to change your sig John!?

Triple J Motorsport · 22 Nov 2004, 14:02 (Ref:1160843)

Quote:

Originally posted by JustinDawkins
time to change your sig John!?

Not yet!

Still think the zetec engine is better!

John

JohnMiller · 22 Nov 2004, 14:14 (Ref:1160852)

Quote:

Originally posted by JustinDawkins
time to change your sig John!?

How about:

"My car has lots of competiitve places it can race and will maintain second hand value - both unlike it's more modern-engined cousin."

Actually, I also think the Zetec engine is better - just that EVERYTHING else is worse...

JustinDawkins · 22 Nov 2004, 14:45 (Ref:1160871)

agreed, it is a great engine, also agreed everything else is ****.

How about "At least we have over 40 registered competitors!"

Triple J Motorsport · 22 Nov 2004, 17:39 (Ref:1161006)

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnMiller
How about:

"My car has lots of competiitve places it can race and will maintain second hand value - both unlike it's more modern-engined cousin."

Actually, I also think the Zetec engine is better - just that EVERYTHING else is worse...

Apart from the chassis of course as well

But should the Reynard end up in my Garage I may disagree with that!

Triple J Motorsport · 22 Nov 2004, 17:42 (Ref:1161011)

How about sticking a Zetec engine in a modern kent allowing alloy wheels, dampers and calipers, sounds like a great formula!!!

JohnMiller · 22 Nov 2004, 18:10 (Ref:1161040)

make sure to insist on the 129kg exhaust too though