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2 Jun 2004, 12:42 (Ref:991431) | #1 | |
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engine oils
are there specific engine oils used on formula fords and what about petrol additives any advice whats best?
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2 Jun 2004, 14:11 (Ref:991549) | #2 | ||
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Re engine additives the only legal additive, (MSAuk) is Millers CVL which is a competition valve lubricant with an octane booster. 250ml takes 20litres of super U/L to about 100 Octane.
Re Engine Oils, what type of engine are you running? Kent, Pinto or CVH? Generally speaking the old the engine (design), the thicker the oil needs to be to make good pressure. i.e. 20/50 Valvoline Racing Mineral Oil. |
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2 Jun 2004, 16:15 (Ref:991692) | #3 | |
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kent engine. wouldnt thick oil sap some of the power?
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2 Jun 2004, 22:13 (Ref:992049) | #4 | ||
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We run Mobil 1 synthetic in our kent. no problems encountered..
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3 Jun 2004, 04:00 (Ref:992205) | #5 | |||
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Quote:
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3 Jun 2004, 04:01 (Ref:992206) | #6 | ||
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We use Castrol Formula R (synthetic) in our kent - it has a strong 60psi oil pressure. It is good oil.
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3 Jun 2004, 07:03 (Ref:992292) | #7 | |
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thankyou all.any specifics for gear box oil?
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3 Jun 2004, 07:33 (Ref:992325) | #8 | ||
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Racing, Mobil SHC 7590, Fuchs HLS7590. Qualifying, I could tell ya but I'd have to kill ya.
Last edited by Chucky; 3 Jun 2004 at 07:34. |
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3 Jun 2004, 07:57 (Ref:992342) | #9 | ||
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Castrol Syntrax for gear oil
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3 Jun 2004, 08:25 (Ref:992363) | #10 | |||
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Quote:
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4 Jun 2004, 02:44 (Ref:993431) | #11 | |||
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Quote:
using any modern oil and changing it very regularly will help a lot. if you go for new oil after every race, and keep the temperature under control, a fairly basic product would probably be OK. |
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"If a man could be crossed with a cat, it would improve the man but deteriorate the cat." Mark Twain |
4 Jun 2004, 07:22 (Ref:993552) | #12 | |
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another stupid question,what brake pads are best?
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4 Jun 2004, 08:07 (Ref:993582) | #13 | ||
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General race use - Mintex M1144
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4 Jun 2004, 08:41 (Ref:993614) | #14 | ||
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I watched an 'infomercial' on Sky the other day in which, after they had run an engine with their oil additive they drained the oil and proceeded to run it for miles, they ran it without the sump and generally abused it. It all seemed too good to be true...how did it work?
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4 Jun 2004, 10:53 (Ref:993717) | #15 | ||
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Did they pull the engine down on camera after? How about running it on a dyno to show how much power it made before and after?
Any engine will run without oil for a while, as the crank abd rods will start to wear their bearings (some lubrication there) and then eat into the surrounding metals, it's usually not until things heat up and start binding together that failures occur. |
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4 Jun 2004, 11:39 (Ref:993750) | #16 | |||
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Quote:
Last edited by Tim Falce; 4 Jun 2004 at 11:41. |
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4 Jun 2004, 14:52 (Ref:993946) | #17 | |
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??
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4 Jun 2004, 16:08 (Ref:994008) | #18 | |||
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Quote:
Last edited by Tim Falce; 4 Jun 2004 at 16:16. |
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4 Jun 2004, 17:48 (Ref:994076) | #19 | ||
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Falcemob...an iteresting link, and Datto I'm sure you have a point, but on the add we had Johnny Rutherford charging round Willow Springs for lap after lap with no oil.
If as is probable they have found a way to keep moving parts apart, if only temporarily, isn't that exactly what we want when an oil pipe drops off on the last lap? |
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5 Jun 2004, 08:14 (Ref:994492) | #20 | |
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thanks falcemob
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5 Jun 2004, 08:18 (Ref:994495) | #21 | |
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Is there a definitive book out there on F/Fords i.e. maintenance repair set up etc. or is it a case of trying to follow a Haynes manual or pick it up as you go along.If there is please post as it would stop me posting all these silly questions.
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5 Jun 2004, 08:45 (Ref:994516) | #22 | ||
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Gaz...there was a book about FF published a while ago, I don't think it was very comprehensive, and will be out of date now.
I suggest you volunteer yourself to a team, work for nothing for a few weeks and keep your eyes open. There aren't any secrets to the job. |
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