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11 Jan 2008, 00:16 (Ref:2103893) | #1 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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rotax max on a budget can you be semi competive??
im looking at buying a 2 year old rotax max (senior) for about 2,000 euro. i am wondering is it possible to be competive as in mid grid?? i am looking to go karting for a year or two to learn race craft but if i cant be competive on this budget then has anyone any other solutions?? i.e. different classes?
thanks |
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13 Jan 2008, 11:13 (Ref:2105159) | #2 | ||
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Not sure how competitive the scene is in Eire, but over here at a decent level the answer would be no. However for club level, especially in Max 177 you should be ok.
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15 Jan 2008, 19:26 (Ref:2106825) | #3 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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race max in ireland ,u can be semi competive on a decent budget,
in max ur engine is most important u can buy a 2 yr old rolling chassis for about E850-1000 in good cond. buy a max engine thats about to pop(cheaper),send it to kart-e-quip,ogden,hrs (all major rebuilders) kart-e-quip are irish so some support available and for around E1500 maxuim (can vary) you will have a mighty engine on return,you can get a max rebuilt around E600 but it wont be competitve, average entry fee 100-120E saturday practise 60- 80 average tyres 180 a set u can do 2 races if ur on a really tight budget,depends if your out for d crack or wnt to b on d pace misc.plugs etc lets say E80,you might only spend 20 but u dnt wnt to be left at side of the track,as u build up ur collection of equip. this will reduce. petrol E15-20 will do the weekend average 12 races in max for the complete season ohhh try e-bay for bargains on equipment if ur on a shoe string budget try irishkarting.com buy and sell section, ive a 06 tony kart evs rolling chassis in mint condition e900 if ur interested Last edited by crgmichael; 15 Jan 2008 at 19:30. |
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15 Jan 2008, 19:45 (Ref:2106830) | #4 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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if you are on a really tight budget buy a none tuned engine for about E1000 off a team as they cant screw you(e.g a private sales person could say theres is 8hrs on the engine and their could be 30 hrs on it and it would b ready to pop) a non tuned engine would be good for top 13 finishes in the right hands in a grid of about 20-25,u can buy a chassis private as u can see what ur buying
i used to run myself on my lunch money a few years ago so it can be done |
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21 Jan 2008, 23:44 (Ref:2110912) | #5 | ||
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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I would say you could be competitive, a good driver can make it up..
I was on a 4 year old kart for the half of this season, and I was fighting top 3, so it can be done.. I'm in Junior Max though... |
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23 Jan 2008, 13:54 (Ref:2111987) | #6 | ||
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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if you have the knowledge and can afford new tyres for every race you can be competitive in any series in karting. i have raced on a budget in tkm with just new tyres and carb rubber, new kart every year, and i have won 2 Super 1 championships. it can be done.
thats how we did things, you can still win on year old chassis, as well, if u can drive you should be up there. |
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23 Jan 2008, 15:13 (Ref:2112033) | #7 | ||
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Yeah, but it's getting more and more expensive...
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23 Jan 2008, 16:58 (Ref:2112107) | #8 | ||
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some things are still fad'ish - take 50mm axles for a start. Id rather stick with a 40 as all I see people with 50's doing is replacing them afteer they are bent.
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27 Jan 2008, 23:52 (Ref:2115105) | #9 | |||
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Quote:
there are people out there that will spend the extra money, but in karting its a different story, money can only take you so far, and buying success does not work. there isnt anything that money can buy to give an advantage, bar time on the track, and a few extra set of tyres. you need a guy with knowledge, or learn it yourself which is what we have done, and a competitive chassis, then its just maintaining entry fees etc. like i said, it can be done, and it has been done. |
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5 Feb 2008, 13:22 (Ref:2121619) | #10 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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thanks for the info
cheers for the info guys its a great help i have a good idea of what i need now!! i wont be buying anything till the end of ths summer so for now im not interested in that chassis
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5 Feb 2008, 14:12 (Ref:2121651) | #11 | ||
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Hi Austin,
If your looking to race on a budget I would'nt recommend the Irish Championship, Its very competitive and its very serious, they use Bridgestone tyres and they cost €190 per set and will only last you a full weekend. If your looking to race on a budget and where its not too serious then you should come along to Midland karting in Edgeworthstown. They run there own championship for Rotax Max, they run on a control tyre which are €100 per set and will last you at least three races, they averaged about twenty karts per race last season, its competitive but its not taken too seriously. The good thing about it is you get three races on the day and your finished up by three o clock so a least you have some of you day left. I done three races last year and had great fun, I wasn't on the pace but it was still good craic, the track has to be the best in Ireland. Im doing the full season this year so looking forward to it. Dave |
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5 Feb 2008, 14:14 (Ref:2121652) | #12 | ||
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Crgmicheal,
I might be interested in the rolling chassis, do you live in Ireland? Dave |
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12 Feb 2008, 13:20 (Ref:2127186) | #13 | ||
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Quote:
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13 Feb 2008, 19:07 (Ref:2128148) | #14 | |||
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Quote:
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13 Feb 2008, 20:08 (Ref:2128189) | #15 | ||
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See I was told by a works test driver that the whole 40 vs 50mm axle debate is moot. Different folks, different strokes I guess. I never run my centre bearing either tho!
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Andretti, Mario: Auto racing legend owns the rights to an unspecified Spinal Tap song, which he purchased when former manager Ian Faith secretly sold the band’s catalog |
20 Feb 2008, 13:22 (Ref:2133328) | #16 | |||
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 625
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Quote:
the 50mm released much better, and i got about half a second out of my chassis and this was in the wet, where i thought it would be better to have a 40! i think the guys that keep coming in with bent axles are the guys that run really soft ones, these are not esseitial as the sameeffect can be gained in other areas like removing the torsion bar, or not running the 3rd bearing. |
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