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Old 29 May 2001, 20:07 (Ref:98480)   #1
CAR 42
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location:
swindon
Posts: 63
CAR 42 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Mini Clutch ???? Mad Rick Needs Help

Help ????
I need help after putting planet gears thought diff case
last time I went out to play.
I have rebuilt gear box and put it all back to together
but and this is a big but I can't get the bloody clutch to
work have replace slave clinder because i thought this might be
causing the problem still no operating clutch have try to
follow the H manual still can get it to work so please
help I am just
about to go into give up mode

MAD RICK
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Old 29 May 2001, 20:27 (Ref:98487)   #2
Craig
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Craig has a real shot at the championship!Craig has a real shot at the championship!Craig has a real shot at the championship!Craig has a real shot at the championship!Craig has a real shot at the championship!Craig has a real shot at the championship!
Don't give up bloke... Sparky will be along shortly
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Old 29 May 2001, 20:36 (Ref:98494)   #3
Sparky
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Suffolk, England
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Sparky should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Wa-Hey! As if by magic...

What ya done, Rick?

Do you have clutch action? (Is the slave cylinder working now?)
Have you adjusted the clutch arm stop bolt out enough? or out too much? It's pretty vague, but you should have something...
If the pedal feels dead, and goes to the floor, it could need bleeding, or adjustment, or even *sharp intake of breath* a bearing inside the clutch cover might be broken or... missing!
If the pedal won't operate, ie go to the floor, my money would be on the throw out stop nuts on the end of the release bearing shaft, Have these been tightened so much they contact the casing before the arm can work?
I just need a little more information, fella.

Don't worry - we'll sort it! Let me know....
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Old 29 May 2001, 21:43 (Ref:98527)   #4
CAR 42
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swindon
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CAR 42 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Hi SPARKY
Story so far
Slave cly has been blead and the arm has been moving but no
clutch I tried undoing stop nut on case so arm was free then
tigtening the nut on main shaft till it was just touching the
case then adjusting the arm stop to give a small gap 2-3MM
still no clutch so I thought lets check everything again still
no clutch so at this time I said sod it engine side mount off
lift engine remove casing
so at the moment I am in the process of starting again but first
I will make sure clutch is working and not sized
well just had flywheel off clutch is free so I am about to start
from the begining with some help please
flywheel etc is back on the bearing on the end of the arm is free
and i have noticed it has been touching the little 3 segmented plate
thats held inplace with a spring on the clucth presssure plate ?
is there somthing else missing off the end of bearing ?
o yes this is 1969 A series motor if thats any help

MAD RICK
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Old 29 May 2001, 23:00 (Ref:98558)   #5
Sparky
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Sparky should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Hi Rick.

I'm assuming that the clutch pedal was solid? Felt like a brake pedal? I would almost certainly suggest the two throw-out nuts - the ones on the bearing shaft - are to tight against the clutch cover. It needs a certain amount of clearance to be able to move. What normally happens is the nuts work themselves loose and 'walk' along the shaft towrads the cover and slowly lock the clutch operation out. Once you've checked all the obvious stuff inside the cover, reassemble everything and try the clutch operation without the stop nuts on the shaft at all. Take 'em right off. Now what have you got? Once you have the operation back, you need to get someone to depress the clutch and adjust the domed throwout nut against the cover, then lock it in place with the smaller outer one. It must be done with the clutch depressed, otherwise you won't have any operation, which is what I suspect has happened now.

If the clutch pedal isn't solid - brake pedal-style - then something is either broken, missing or fitted incorrectly! I've done that last bit a few times, and I worked for a Mini specialist for years, so don't be offended!

Good luck Rick! Keep me posted...
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Old 30 May 2001, 21:28 (Ref:99046)   #6
CAR 42
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CAR 42 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Thanks sparky
removed every thing last night just to start from scratch and found
one problem before removing fly wheel.
The flywheel grove and the grove on the end of the crank were not
in line so the washer with the raise bits on was not seating
where it should have been ( HOMER STRIKES AGAIN )every thing has
now been put back correctly .
Will bleed system tomorrow is there any thing I should do thats
diffrent than other motors
EG do I losen the stop bolt for the arm write off / do I have to
remove the spring before I bleed the system
could I have a complete run thought if possible just in case I miss
something simple
Sorry to be a pain but my H Mannual is pretty ****

MAD RICK

PS I understand about the stop nuts thanks all I think I need
now is to bleed it properly I HOPE !!!!!!!!!
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Old 4 Jun 2001, 21:02 (Ref:101172)   #7
CAR 42
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location:
swindon
Posts: 63
CAR 42 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid

IT WORKS
Thanks sparky I think it was a few fault puts in buy myself
and with your help its sorted...
just ask the wife she's the one that took it up the road at
a great rate of knots just to make shore it worked
THANKS AGAIN

PS MIGHT NEED YOUR ADVICE WHEN THE NEW MOTOR IS FINISHED ??????
230 bhp at flywheel at 7800 rpm so far just have to finish
the shell to put it in

MAD RICK
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