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12 Jan 2007, 07:45 (Ref:1812993) | #1 | ||
The Honourable Mallett
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Have You Modified Your Classic?
In my case I have.
My MGB now sports uprated competition dampers, knock-on alloy wheels and a Fast Road (Octarine built) 1860 cc engine. It is a 1965 car but I have 1969 reclining leather seats and finally the obligatory Moto Lita leather steering wheel. I have a late roof and fold down frame yet to be fitted so it currently still has the grey frame. |
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12 Jan 2007, 22:06 (Ref:1813663) | #2 | ||
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I think the trick is to keep it close to the original, but not to follow the originality exactly. You don't want to lose the essence of the car.
For instance, our E-type has minilites (replicas), the engine big bore head and six branch manifold, the interior has some bucket seats and a smaller steering wheel. The later two are probably the most off topic (), but make it better to drive (for us). It was always your bum that slipped first when cornering! |
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13 Jan 2007, 10:30 (Ref:1813918) | #3 | ||
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Quite,
The MGB has minilite replica knock-ons. Interestingly I also went from 70 profile tyres to full profile and it feels so much better. |
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13 Jan 2007, 10:38 (Ref:1813922) | #4 | ||
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Changing tyres are something else that can alter the car dramatically. there are a couple of schools of thought in E-Type land. Some maintain they have to be on the original narrow (185?) tyres and others increase the width. Obviously it is personal preference, but I think slightly wider is good. they don't get lost in the wheelarch as much and give a little more grip without fundementally changing the car.
The thing with tyres is that you can try different things each time. |
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15 Jan 2007, 05:50 (Ref:1815476) | #5 | ||
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Most definitely (the tyres), I haven't really changed my car (Imp Super up to Sport/GT spec) since I bought it but the new tyres really made a difference, going from 10yo normal road tyres to Dunlop Formula R (for the road).
The main mods to the car done by the previous owner are a larger cam, electronic ignition, stiffening plate for the bottom of the block, a harness and set of 13" Cosmic alloys. Some other smaller things like Mini fuel pump instead of Imp to make plumbing a bit neater, seat faces retrimmed in fabric instead of vinyl, front grille (heater intake) chromed as per one of the Imp conversions available in the 60's, different gauges in the dash, etc. This car is for fun, I have another in the shed that is reasonably low mileage original that with a bit of work could be on the road for that - maybe in 20 years at the rate it is going, had it nearly 10yr now & I bet that sounds familiar to some! |
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17 Jan 2007, 12:37 (Ref:1817441) | #6 | ||
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As mentioned on the other thread, I'm thinking of modding (upgrading, may be a better word) my MGC GT. It's such a nice original car that I don't want to go over the top. I've just had to replace the rear leaf springs and steering wheel for the MOT; the former had a fractured leaf on one side and the latter, loose spokes. I replaced the steering wheel with a direct replacement preferring to keep the big diameter rather than a smaller radius Motolita or similar. The big wheel makes it feel much more in period as well as keeping the steering effortless.
However, I am thinking of changing the original steel road wheels (complete with chrome hub caps!) for 'original appearance' alloys, rather like yours Peter, only I'll stick to wheel nuts rather than spinners. Also want to replace the original fixed seatbelts with inertia reels. The fixed belts occasionally slip off the shoulder however much they are tightened. I'd like to replace the seats with ones with head restraints, although they are £350 each, exchange. Under the bonnet, I'm thinking of replacing the distributor with a new look alike one which contains proper modern electronics for easier starting, spark control and better fuel consumption. Finally, I'm also thinking of substituting the existing air cleaner with K&Ns. I'm not really looking for improved performance, more a way of making it just a bit more practical for regular use in modern driving conditions. Any views on the above, anyone? |
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17 Jan 2007, 12:50 (Ref:1817470) | #7 | |||||
The Honourable Mallett
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Quote:
Quote:
Be careful with the seat belts, some of them can come up a little short. As to the seats, whilst not original a pair of historic competiton seats with head restraints may prove more economincal although I don't have head restraints on the MGB. Quote:
K&Ns do provide an improvement so I'd definitely go for them. Last edited by John Turner; 18 Jan 2007 at 09:38. |
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18 Jan 2007, 08:42 (Ref:1818204) | #8 | ||
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Dont forget you will need to rejet the carbs if you take the K&N route John.The needles will definitly need changing.
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18 Jan 2007, 09:37 (Ref:1818249) | #9 | ||
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Thanks, guys!
Terence, I think the carbs could do with an overhaul, so will change the jets at the same time. |
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20 Jan 2007, 08:34 (Ref:1820074) | #10 | ||
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Its been such a long time since I,ve played with SUs I cant for the life of me remember what needles you will need,tripple something or other!
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Living the dream,Chief instruktor and racing on the worlds best circuits-The Nordschleife and Spa.Getting to drive the worlds best cars-someone has to do it, so glad its me. |
30 Jan 2007, 03:00 (Ref:1829161) | #11 | |
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My classic is modified - it's a Droopsnoot Firenza, and is basically in Group One spec (minus roll cage/fire extinguisher)
But otherwise basically group one engine, my own brake mods, modern dampers and poly bushes etc On the seats front - while i appreciate the originality of low back seats- both my parents now suffer from whiplash from two different car accidents (none of which was their fault) so since I can't help think that head restraints are a good idea. Personally I've decided to really impress the purists and got a set of bucket seats from a Subaru Impreza to go in the front of the HPF |
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21 Jan 2008, 09:41 (Ref:2110381) | #12 | ||
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Finished up doing and spending more than intended. As you can see it now has Minilite replica wheels with new 185 section tyres. Also new seats with headrests and inertia reel seat belts. It has also had a new exhaust and fuel tank, as well as a king pin overhaul. Changed to K&N filters with a change of needles. However, although I've done SUs many times before, I just couldn't get the running right. I wasn't happy with the centering of the front needle, despite my best attempts. So got MGB Hive, who had done all the other work (great company to deal with) listed above to check everything over. They reverted to standard needles but still couldn't get the running right. The car pulls well and smoothly under load but awful on a trailing throttle, so they have recommended a rolling road solution. After that, it remains for completion of a respray, started a year and a half ago, and then I hope that will be it, for awhile. Definitely one to keep; even my Wife loves the car! We were actually using it regularly on the run up to Christmas! Last edited by John Turner; 21 Jan 2008 at 09:46. |
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21 Jan 2008, 14:28 (Ref:2110577) | #13 | ||
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John If it has a vacuum advance distributor, make sure that the advance diaphragm isn't split. Seeing your GT reminds me of scrapping a couple of Bs in the 70s , one had a knackered diff and the other one wanted an engine. and they weren't rusty !! hindsight ARRRRRRR
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22 Jan 2008, 08:48 (Ref:2111069) | #14 | ||
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We all wish we'd have kept many cars, Gordon.
Like I wish I had bought the white XK150S drophead with engine in bits and fully reconned just needed assembly: in 1966 for £120. I wish I had kept my MGA Twin Cam. And my Jaguar S type 3.4 with only 34,000 on the clock. |
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