Help Please

mdane · 26 Jun 2006, 03:04 (Ref:1641266)

Is there a rule of thumb for Shutter speed when taking pics at Circuits.

I am trying to get nice sharp photos that avoid the wheels looking like they are not moving

I have tried 60, 125 - too slow and blurred

1000+ - the car looks like it is parked as there is no movement, but nice and sharp.

I have had some success panning at around 250 but inconsistent.

What do people usually use

Many thanks for your help

regards

Mike

James North · 26 Jun 2006, 10:07 (Ref:1641464)

I advise practise.

The slower the shutter speed the harder it is to take, but it's also where you'l get more movement in your picture. So just develop your techique. I'd say though go no higher than 250 for a "moving wheels pic" and go as low as you can get away with.

Personally I find the focus just as important as shutter speed in regards to the sharpness of a shot, more important. So also make sure your focus is right, and if you're on auto focus, concentrate on your timing. Sometimes AI Servo can be a bit slow and you end up with a soft picture because the cars not quite in focus.

gungadan · 26 Jun 2006, 12:36 (Ref:1641582)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdane

Is there a rule of thumb for Shutter speed when taking pics at Circuits.

I am trying to get nice sharp photos that avoid the wheels looking like they are not moving

I have tried 60, 125 - too slow and blurred

1000+ - the car looks like it is parked as there is no movement, but nice and sharp.

I have had some success panning at around 250 but inconsistent.

What do people usually use

Many thanks for your help

regards

Mike

My 'stock' shutter speed for three quarter head-on shots is 1/320th. I find this gives some movement in the wheels but also a good chance of keeping everything else sharp. When panning I use from 1/60th to 1/250th depending on how fast the car is going and how close it is. Depends what you're after though, some blurring of the car can be OK if it gives a good impression of speed. Most of the stuff on my Web site follows the above principles.

HTH

mdane · 26 Jun 2006, 12:49 (Ref:1641593)

Many thanks for the help

really appreciated

Good luck in the World Cup

Maybe AUS v England in Final?????

here's hoping

regards

Mike

gungadan · 26 Jun 2006, 13:02 (Ref:1641606)

Quote:

Originally Posted by James North

I advise practise.

The slower the shutter speed the harder it is to take, but it's also where you'l get more movement in your picture. So just develop your techique. I'd say though go no higher than 250 for a "moving wheels pic" and go as low as you can get away with.

Personally I find the focus just as important as shutter speed in regards to the sharpness of a shot, more important. So also make sure your focus is right, and if you're on auto focus, concentrate on your timing. Sometimes AI Servo can be a bit slow and you end up with a soft picture because the cars not quite in focus.

James, you use a 20D don't you? It might be worth having your camera calibrated just to take the possibilty of that being an issue out of the equation. If it's in its warranty period you should be able to get this done for free. I'd read about this as an issue in various places and to be honest wasn't sure whether my camera was affected because the mis-focus wasn't consistent. Since having it done however, I'm finding very few shots are OOF - plenty not sharp because of dodgy technique but that's down to me.

James North · 26 Jun 2006, 14:52 (Ref:1641697)

I use both a 10D and a 20D.

And I still tend to get better results in my view, with the 10D. Maybe getting the 20D calibrated isn't a bad idea. Because in theory, I should not still be getting better results with the 10D.

gungadan · 26 Jun 2006, 15:33 (Ref:1641722)

Quote:

Originally Posted by James North

I use both a 10D and a 20D.

And I still tend to get better results in my view, with the 10D. Maybe getting the 20D calibrated isn't a bad idea. Because in theory, I should not still be getting better results with the 10D.

Definately sounds like it and not a great deal to lose other than a week or so without the camera (OK, so that's quite a lot to lose

). I took mine to a Canon Service Centre where the tech said the problem was very common among 300 and 20Ds. He said there's nothing inherently wrong with the cameras but they're not properly calibrated out of the factory. If you want contact details of the place I went to, PM me. They have a good reputation.

PaulSands · 27 Jun 2006, 07:29 (Ref:1642297)

I agree about the 10D vs 20D ...the 20D in all the reviews was supposed to have improved the AI issues the 10D had but my experience has been just the opposite

franku · 29 Jun 2006, 15:47 (Ref:1644249)

I would suggest that you have a problem with your 20D if you think the 10D gave better photos.

The 20D shots that we get from our photographer's are excelent and consistent.

Frank
Motorphotography Australia