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17 Feb 2006, 09:00 (Ref:1524870) | #1 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Yokohama AO48's
Hi everyone
I'm looking for 13" Yokohama AO48's - apart from the obvious (Demon Tweeks) can anyone suggest a company (or person) that sells them? If anyone has any part-worn 48's they might like to get rid of perhaps you could PM me off line? Thanks very much. (If this isn't appropriate for this forum please can a moderator let me know where I should post these types of questions. Many thanks) |
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17 Feb 2006, 09:21 (Ref:1524882) | #2 | ||
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Just find your local Yokohama stockist and they will be able to get them, my dealer gets them the following day. Alternatively you can try Polley Motorsport or Adams and Page and they will send them to you.
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17 Feb 2006, 10:16 (Ref:1524918) | #3 | ||
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Thanks Falcemob. I'll try your suggestions.
Oi_Oi |
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17 Feb 2006, 10:36 (Ref:1524928) | #4 | ||
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You'll find it hard to beat Polley on price or service.
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17 Feb 2006, 17:03 (Ref:1525184) | #5 | ||
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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Try Adams & Page after Polley and they may match or even beat the price. Their no is 01494 525971
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18 Feb 2006, 10:45 (Ref:1525545) | #6 | |
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Mel William's supplys Yokohama's, he goes to most rallycross meetings, and he has 13'' 048R's. I know because I get them from him for my XR2. He is as competative on price as anyone. If you PM me I will try to get you a contact number.
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18 Feb 2006, 21:48 (Ref:1525932) | #7 | ||
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Check with Polley Motorsport which race meetings they will be attending at your nearest race track. If you go and visit them at a race meeting they will usually do the fitting and balancing for free :-)
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18 Feb 2006, 21:53 (Ref:1525936) | #8 | ||
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I just find that unless Polley's or Adams and Page are at the race meetings or you live near them, it is the same price or a tad cheaper to buy them from my local Yoko dealer. Don't forget you will have to pay some to fit them.
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20 Feb 2006, 08:40 (Ref:1526743) | #9 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Thanks for all your advice everyone. As I've said already I'll try some of the initial suggestions bearing in mind all your welcome advice too.
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20 Feb 2006, 09:29 (Ref:1526786) | #10 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Does anyone have any comparative info on 32R's vs 48's Can get both in Oz for quite a few historic tourers. Don't know what the situation is in Blighty
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20 Feb 2006, 22:05 (Ref:1527441) | #11 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Unless things have changed recently there are only 2 compounds for 13" 48s and there were eventually 3 for 32s. Logic suggests softest 32s softer than 48s.
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20 Feb 2006, 23:51 (Ref:1527527) | #12 | |||
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Quote:
As for comparative info, the soft 48 is rated across the supersoft/soft 32 range and the harder 48 is rated across the soft/medium 32 range. The main difference, however, is supposed to come from the change in tread pattern. The 32s have been criticised (the given reason for them being discontinued) because the isolated diamond shape centre tread blocks move around a lot and are prone to overheating. They're easy to generate heat in quickly by working them a bit, but they go off quite quickly as well, particularly on a warm day (I can vouch for both of those personally). The pattern on the 48 links that centre block to the outer edge tread blocks, giving it more stability and avoiding the problem on the 32. Reports I've heard from users who've tried both are very positive for the 48s from a grip and tread stability point of view, but some have suggested that they are more difficult to get up to temperature in cold/damp conditions. General impression seems favourable to 48s over 32s. Hope that helps |
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21 Feb 2006, 06:37 (Ref:1527666) | #13 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Sounds like 48's are the go. Do you reckon that buffing is of any benefit. If so how much
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21 Feb 2006, 09:09 (Ref:1527771) | #14 | ||
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I have te same experiences of the 032s and 048s as dtype38 - I went from soft 032s to medium 048s (regulations prohibited the soft 048s) so I can't quite compare like for like, but the 048s seem more 'consistent' over a race. It might also be possible to run them with slightly lower pressures than the 032s. If you ran the 032s too soft, then you tended to get heavy shoulder wear - that might not be the case with the 048s.
Buffing - I would tend not to bother. The 048 tread blocks are huge, so they're not going to move around that much, and to be honest, the tread's not that deep to start with anyway - not as deep as a more conventional road tyre. |
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21 Feb 2006, 16:42 (Ref:1528131) | #15 | ||
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If you've got time and patience, then there are a couple of old threads about tyres that include some posts on tyre buffing. To be honest, I haven't got the time to read back through them to identify the specific posts, but from memory, the concensus was as follows: buffing your tyres and heat cycling them correctly will give you a very grippy and consistent tyre, but its wear life is limited if you're setup and style are hard on tyres. It is something that is worth doing if you are a serious competitor in a closely fought series, but if you're just getting started or on a very limited budget then its of dubious benefit.
The threads are Tyres - what influences grip at http://tentenths.com/forum/showthrea...41#post1471341 and Heat Cycles and the Racing Tyre at http://tentenths.com/forum/showthrea...59#post1273159 |
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21 Feb 2006, 17:19 (Ref:1528152) | #16 | ||
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opinion caterham super- and mega-graduates seems not to buff them - as previously said there's not that much tread on to begin with
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21 Feb 2006, 19:45 (Ref:1528256) | #17 | ||
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I think the medium 048R spans the supersoft/soft 32R range, and the soft 48R should be superior to the supersoft 32R....according to this.
PolleyMotorsport |
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21 Feb 2006, 22:31 (Ref:1528395) | #18 | |
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Thanks for the info guys
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22 Feb 2006, 08:24 (Ref:1528809) | #19 | |||
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Quote:
Mike |
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22 Feb 2006, 09:13 (Ref:1528850) | #20 | |||
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Quote:
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22 Feb 2006, 14:06 (Ref:1529086) | #21 | |
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Join Date: May 2004
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048s
My formula (RGB) went from 032rs (SS) to ACB10s to 048rs (M) over a few years. Lap times are lower now with the 48s. That may be in part due to cars and drivers improving, but the tyres are at least as quick. 48s are MUCH better than ACB10s in the damp, and better than 32rs. They're still scary on a 500kg car in standing water.
The M compound 48 is somewhere between the S and SS 32r but seems to offer grip that's at least as good. The 48 i ssuperior to the 32 in every way. Buffing - no. The 48 is lethal for the first lap, till you have the release compound off, but after the first dry session they're as quick as they're going to get. I try to keep a new set for "wets" then run the "dry" set down to about 1mm of tread, at which point they seem to go off big style. G |
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